Ngenisa i-imeyile yakho kwaye uhlale usexesheni ngeeleta zeendaba, izimemo zeminyhadala kunye nentengiso nge-imeyile yeVogue Business.Ungazikhupha nanini na.Nceda ujonge umgaqo-nkqubo wethu wabucala ngolwazi olungakumbi.
Ishishini leempahla zamehlo alikhange lihambelane nesantya samanye amashishini efashoni, kodwa njengoko amaza ohlobo oluzimeleyo achaphazela imarike ngezimvo ezitsha, itekhnoloji entsha, kunye nokuzinikela ekubandakanyeni, utshintsho luyenzeka.
Umsebenzi we-M&A nawo uphakamile, nto leyo eluphawu lwexesha lezidubedube.I-Kering Eyewear ibhengeze izolo ukuba iceba ukufumana i-Lindberg, i-brand yaseDenmark ye-eyewear brand eyaziwayo nge-high-tech titanium optical lens kunye neempawu eziqhelekileyo, ebonisa injongo yayo yokuphuhlisa kule ndawo.Emva kokulibaziseka kunye neengxaki zomthetho, umenzi wamehlo waseFransi-Italian u-EssilorLuxottica ekugqibeleni wagqiba ukufumana umthengisi wamehlo waseDatshi i-Grandvision ye-7.3 yeebhiliyoni ze-euro ngoJulayi 1. Olunye uphawu lokunyuka: UWarby Parker, ingcali yamehlo e-omnichannel e-United States, isanda kufaka isicelo. i IPO-iya kumiselwa.
Ishishini lamehlo kudala lilawulwa ngamagama ambalwa, njenge-EssilorLuxottica kunye ne-Safilo e-Italy.Iinkampani zefashoni ezifana neBulgari, Prada, Chanel kunye neVersace zixhomekeke kwaba badlali baphambili ukuvelisa ingqokelela yamehlo adla ngokuba nelayisensi.I-Kering Eyewear yaphehlelelwa ngo-2014 kwaye iyila ngaphakathi, iphuhlisa, ithengisa kwaye isasaze iimpahla zamehlo kwi-brand ye-Kering, i-Richemont's Cartier kunye ne-Alaïa, kunye ne-brand yezemidlalo i-Puma.Ukwenziwa kwemveliso kusanikezelwa ikakhulu kubathengisi basekhaya: I-Fulcrum iye yaseka ishishini lengeniso ye-wholesale ye-600 yezigidi zeeyuro.Nangona kunjalo, iingcali ezintsha zamehlo kuyilo, ukwenziwa kunye nokuhanjiswa zenza amandla amatsha kwintengiso.Ngaphaya koko, ngaphandle kwesikhundla esiphezulu se-EssilorLuxottica, ezinye iinkampani zefashoni zifuna ukufunda kwimpumelelo yeebrendi zamehlo ezizimeleyo.Igama elifanele ukubonwa: I-Monster yase-Korea yase-Korea, i-brand ene-themed ivenkile ebonakalayo efana negalari yobugcisa, intsebenziswano ephezulu kunye noyilo olupholileyo.I-LVMH ithenge i-7% ye-stake kwi-2017 ngexabiso le-US $ 60 yezigidi.Abanye badla ngokuvelisa izinto ezintsha kwaye baquka wonke umntu.
Ngokutsho kwe-Euromonitor International, imboni ye-optical iya kuphinda ibuyele ngamandla kwi-2021, kwaye imboni kulindeleke ukuba ikhule nge-7% ukufikelela kwi-US $ 129 billion.Kuba iiglasi zithengwa kakhulu ezivenkileni, ukuchacha kwezoqoqosho kuya kuqhutywa kukuthomalaliswa kwezithintelo zokuthengisa ezibekwe ngubhubhane kunye nemfuno eqokelelweyo.Abahlalutyi bathi ukuvulwa kwakhona kweshishini lokuthengisa kuya kukhuthaza ukubuyiswa kwamadijithi amabini kwezinye iimarike, kubandakanya iHong Kong neJapan.
Ngokwembali, umzi-mveliso wefashoni awuzange ube nobuchule bokwenza iimveliso zamehlo, ngoko ke iye yajika kwiinkampani ezinjenge-EssilorLuxottica ukwenza nokusasaza iimveliso.Ngo-1988, uLuxottica watyikitya isivumelwano sokuqala selayisenisi kunye noGiorgio Armani, "udidi olutsha olubizwa ngokuba 'iiglasi' lwazalwa", njengoko uFederico Buffa, uMlawuli we-R & D, iSimbo seMveliso kunye neLayisensi yeLuxottica Group, wathi.
Ukufumana kuka-EssilorLuxottica kweGrandVision kwenze umdlali omkhulu kakhulu.Umhlalutyi kaBernstein uLuca Solca wathi kwingxelo: “Ukuvela kwesigebenga esitsha seendondo ekugqibeleni kuye kwakhokelela eqongeni.”“Ngoku sinokuqalisa umsebenzi wokudibanisa emva kokudityaniswa ngokunyanisekileyo.Zininzi izinto ekufuneka zenziwe, eziquka…ukumanyaniswa kolungiselelo nokuthengisa.Inkqubo kunye neziseko zophuhliso, izixhobo ezidityanisiweyo zokusika iilensi kunye nokugquma, uhlengahlengiso lwesayizi yenethiwekhi yokuthengisa kunye nokulungelelanisa, kunye nokukhawuleza kwedijithali. "
Nangona kunjalo, iimpawu ezincinci zinokuchaphazela uphuhliso lwexesha elizayo lweeglasi zodidi.Iimpawu zaseMelika i-Coco kunye ne-Breezy zinezitokhwe e-Nordstrom kunye neevenkile ze-optical ezimalunga ne-400, ezibeka ukuqukana phambili kwingqokelela nganye.“Iimveliso zethu azinasini,” watsho amawele angamawele ase-Afrika aseMelika nasePuerto Rican afanayo uCorianna noBrianna Dotson.“Xa sasiqala ukungena emarikeni, abantu babesoloko besithi: ‘Ziphi na iimpahla zakho zamadoda?Iphi ingqokelela yakho yempahla yabasetyhini?Senza iiglasi zabantu abangahoywanga [ngabavelisi bemveli].”
Oku kuthetha ukudala iiglasi ezifanelekileyo kwiibhulorho zempumlo ezahlukeneyo, i-cheekbones kunye nemilo yobuso.“Kuthi, indlela esenza ngayo iindondo kukwenza uphando lwemarike nokwenza konke okusemandleni ethu ukwenza [iifreyimu] ezilungele wonke umntu,” batsho oodade bakwaDotson.Bakhumbula ifuthe lokuthatha inxaxheba kuMboniso weVision njengelona phawu lweglasi kuphela oluphethwe ngabantu abamnyama.“Kuthi, kubaluleke kakhulu ukubonisa ubunewunewu hayi eYurophu kuphela.Zininzi iindlela zokujonga izinto zodidi oluphezulu,” batsho.
I-brand yaseKorea i-Gentle Monster, eyasungulwa ngumsunguli kunye ne-CEO uHankook Kim ngo-2011, yaqala ukuvelisa izakhelo ezikhethekileyo kubathengi base-Asia, kodwa emva kokutsala abaphulaphuli behlabathi, uphawu ngoku luye lwadala uluhlu lweeglasi ezibandakanyayo.“Ekuqaleni, khange sicinge nyani ngokuya kwihlabathi,” utshilo uDavid Kim, umlawuli wamava abathengi kwiGentle Monster.“Ngelo xesha, kwimakethi yaseAsia, iifreyimu ezinkulu zaziyinto eqhelekileyo.Njengoko sasikhula, safumanisa ukuba ezi zakhelo zazingenamdla kummandla waseAsia kuphela.”
Uyilo olubandakanyayo, njengazo zonke iiglasi ezintle, zinesitayile kwaye ziyasebenza."Kufuneka sikwazi ukudibanisa iindlela, imfashini kunye nokusebenza," utshilo uKim."Isiphumo kukuba sinokhetho olubanzi kunye nokuguquguquka okukhulu kuyilo lwethu.Siya kuba noyilo lwesakhelo, kodwa siya kuba nobukhulu obahlukeneyo ukuziqhelanisa.Undoqo kukuba ube nako kangangoko ngaphandle kokuncama uyilo.Ukuqukana.”UKim uthe iinkampani ezincinci ezifana neGentle Monster zinokwenza umsebenzi olungileyo wokuvavanywa kwemarike, zifumane impendulo ngqo kubathengi, kwaye zidibanise le ngxelo kwimveliso elandelayo.Ngokungafaniyo nabavelisi bamehlo abaqhelekileyo, i-Gentle Monster ayiqhutywa zizibalo zamehlo okanye idatha.Ngokujolisa kwingxelo yabathengi kunye nokuveliswa kwezinto ezintsha kwezobuchwepheshe, ikhule yaba yintshatsheli ephambili.
I-Mykita yi-brand esekwe eBerlin ethengisa iimveliso kubathengisi kumazwe angama-80, kwaye i-R&D ingundoqo kwishishini layo.UMoritz Krueger, i-CEO kunye nomlawuli wokudala waseMykita, uthe ishishini leempahla zamehlo alikaphuhli.UKrueger ukholelwa ukuba abathengi bayo abahlukeneyo kunye neempawu zobuso kufuneka ziqondwe ngokucacileyo."Besisakha uluhlu lwethu olusekelwe kuhlalutyo olubanzi lweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zobuso kunye neemfuno ezahlukeneyo zamayeza," utshilo uKruger."[Sine] ipotifoliyo yemveliso epheleleyo, evumela abathengi bethu bokugqibela ukuba benze ukhetho oluchanekileyo kwihlabathi jikelele ... fumana eli qabane lobuqu lifanelekileyo ngokwenene."
Inkqubo yophuhliso ingundoqo weMykita, ingcali yamehlo, oye wadala ngaphezu kweeyunithi ze-800 ze-inventory.Zonke iifreyimu zayo zenziwe ngesandla eMykita Haus eBerlin, eJamani.
Ezi mpawu zincinci zinokuba nempembelelo engalinganiyo kwimarike, kwaye kukho izizathu ezininzi ezilungileyo.Njengakuwo onke amanqanaba, umntu omtsha ekugqibeleni uya kuphumelela kuba enemveliso efanelekileyo, unxibelelwano olufanelekileyo, umgangatho ochanekileyo, isitayile esifanelekileyo, kwaye baye baseka unxibelelwano nomthengi,” utshilo uFrancesca Di Pasquantonio. , UPhando lwe-Deutsche Bank Equity.
Iinkampani zefashoni zodidi zifuna ukungena. I-Gentle Monster isebenzisana neempawu ezifana noFendi no-Alexander Wang.Ukongeza kwindlu yefashoni, baye basebenzisana noTilda Swinton, uJennie kaBlackpink, iWorld of Warcraft kunye neAmbush.UMykita usebenzisana noMargiela, uMoncler kunye noHelmut Lang.U-Krueger uthe: "Asizisi kuphela iimveliso ezigqityiweyo ezenziwe ngesandla, kodwa i-R&D yethu, ubuchule bokuyila kunye nokuhanjiswa kwenethiwekhi kudityaniswa kwiprojekthi nganye."
Ulwazi lobuchwephesha lusabalulekile.U-Anita Balchandani, intloko yeMcKinsey Yurophu, kuMbindi Mpuma kunye ne-Afrika Apparel, iFashoni kunye neQela leNtofontofo, uthe: "Kuhlobo olutofotofo, kuya kuba ngumceli mngeni ngokwenene ukuba nesiphakamiso sobuchwephesha malunga nokufaneleka kunye novavanyo."Yiyo loo nto sikholelwa ukuba iingcali zamehlo ziya kuqhubeka nokudlala indima.Apho izinto zodidi oluphezulu zinokudlala indima kukuyilwa kobuhle kunye nentsebenziswano nezi ngcali.”
Itekhnoloji sesinye isixhobo sokukhuthaza utshintsho kwishishini leeglasi.Ngo-2019, i-Gentle Monster yasebenzisana nesigebenga setekhnoloji yaseTshayina iHuawei ukukhulula iiglasi zayo zokuqala ezikrelekrele, ivumela abathengi ukuba benze kwaye bafumane iifowuni ngeendondo.“Olu lutyalo-mali, kodwa sizuze lukhulu kulo,” utshilo uJin.
I-Gentle Monster iyaziwa ngokuqokelelwa kwamehlo kwamehlo, imiboniso emikhulu yokuthengisa kunye nentsebenziswano ephezulu.
Ugxininiso kutshintsho luye lwaba yinxalenye ebalulekileyo yesazisi seMonster eGentle.UKim uthe abathengi batsalwa yinto ekhethekileyo yophawu.I-teknoloji ihlanganiswe kwi-Gentle Monster store kunye nomyalezo wonke wokuthengisa.“Itsala abathengi.Abantu abangakhange bacinge nokucinga ngokuthenga iindondo batsaleleka evenkileni ziirobhothi zethu kunye nemiboniso,” utshilo uJin.Ivenkile yeflagship yeGentle Monster itshintsha amava okuthengisa amehlo ngothotho olulinganiselweyo, iirobhothi kunye neziboniso ezintsha.
I-Mykita yazama ushicilelo lwe-3D kwaye yavelisa uhlobo olutsha lwemathiriyeli ebizwa ngokuba yiMykita Mylon, eyaphumelela ibhaso loyilo olubalaseleyo lwe-IF ngo-2011. IMykita Mylon-yenziwe ngomgubo ocolekileyo wepolyamide udityaniswe kwinto eyomeleleyo usebenzisa iteknoloji yoshicilelo lwe-3D-yomelele kwaye ivumela iMykita ukuba lawula inkqubo yoyilo, utshilo uKruger.
Ukongeza kushicilelo lwe-3D, iMykita ikwaseke ubambiswano olunqabileyo kunye nomenzi wekhamera uLeica ukwenza iilensi ezizodwa kunye nezahlukileyo kwiiglasi zeMykita.UKrueger uthe obu budlelwane bukhethekileyo buphuhliswe ngaphezulu kweminyaka emithathu, ivumela iMykita ukuba "ifumane ngokuthe ngqo kwiLeica ilensi yelanga ekumgangatho obonakalayo enemigangatho efanayo yeelensi zekhamera kunye nezemidlalo."
Ukwenziwa kwezinto ezintsha ziindaba ezimnandi kuye wonke umntu okwishishini leeglasi.“Into esiqala ukuyibona ngoku lishishini apho kusenziwa izinto ezintsha ngakumbi, kubandakanya neefomathi kunye neefomathi zeomnichannel kunye nendlela ebonelela ngayo ngeenkonzo kubathengi.Ayinamthungo ngakumbi kwaye idijithali ngakumbi, ”utshilo uBalchandani."Sibone izinto ezintsha ezintsha kule ndawo."
Lo bhubhani unyanzelise iimveliso zamehlo ukuba zifumane iindlela ezintsha zokufikelela kubathengi.ICubitts isebenzisa itekhnoloji yokukhangela ubuso bukaHeru ukutshintsha indlela abathengi abathenga ngayo iiglasi, kwaye ivumela abasebenzisi ukuba basebenzise itekhnoloji ye-3D ukuzama iiglasi ekhaya."Usetyenziso lweCubitts lusebenzisa ukuskena (iqhezu le-millimeter) ukuguqula ubuso ngamnye bube yimilinganiselo eyahlukileyo.Emva koko, sisebenzisa le milinganiselo ukuze sincede ukukhetha isakhelo esifanelekileyo, okanye senze isakhelo ukusuka ekuqaleni ukufezekisa ukuchaneka kunye nobukhulu obuchanekileyo, "kusho uTom Broughton, umsunguli weCubitts.
Ngophando olunzulu kunye nohlalutyo, i-Bohten yenza iimveliso zamehlo ezizinzileyo ezilungele abantu bomnombo wase-Afrika.
I-Eyewa, eyona venkile inkulu ye-UAE ye-eyewear ekwi-intanethi, isandula ukunyusa i-US$21 yezigidi kwinkxaso-mali ye-Series B kwaye ikwaceba ukwandisa iimveliso zayo zedijithali.U-Anas Boumediene, umseki kunye no-CEO we-Eyewa, uthe: "Sihlola ukudityaniswa kwetekhnoloji entsha ye-hardware kuthotho lwexesha elizayo, olufana nesakhelo sokuva umsindo."“Sisebenzise itekhnoloji yethu kunye neetshaneli ze-omni ngokusebenzisa iindawo zethu zokuthengisa eziphambili.Amava, siza kwenza inkqubela enkulu ekuziseni iimarike ezininzi kwi-Intanethi. ”
Ukwenziwa kwezinto ezintsha nako kunabela kuzinzo.Akukhona nje ukuba ufanelekile.U-Co-founder uNana K. Osei uthe: "Isizathu sokuba abaninzi abathengi bethu bathanda ukusebenzisa izinto ezahlukeneyo ezizinzileyo, nokuba i-acetate yezityalo okanye izinto ezahlukeneyo zokhuni, kuba induduzo kunye nokulungelelaniswa kubhetele kakhulu kunezakhelo zetsimbi.", umseki we-Bohten, i-brand ye-eyewear ephefumlelweyo yase-Afrika.Inyathelo elilandelayo: Yandisa umjikelo wobomi beeglasi.Kwimeko nayiphi na into, iimpawu ezizimeleyo zikhokelela kwikamva elitsha leeglasi.
Ngenisa i-imeyile yakho kwaye uhlale usexesheni ngeeleta zeendaba, izimemo zeminyhadala kunye nentengiso nge-imeyile yeVogue Business.Ungazikhupha nanini na.Nceda ujonge umgaqo-nkqubo wethu wabucala ngolwazi olungakumbi.
Ixesha lokuposa: Nov-10-2021